In reply to a request by Paxton, (see Sainsbury’s in Sydenham Road, 18th June 09), here are some of my memories of the Crystal Palace; I hope they will be of interest.
I was born in Thicket Road overlooking the Crystal Palace Park, in January 1920. I have no memory of that of course, but my mother told me that she could see, from her bedroom window the prehistoric creature attempting to climb a tree. I have seen it many times since. It is said that a true cockney would have been born within the sound of Bow Bells. What may I call myself having been born within the sight and sounds of the Crystal Palace?
According to my mother, as a child in arms, I was taken by her for a bus ride up to the Palace to see the crowds awaiting the arrival of the then Prince of Wales (Edward VIII), who would be attending a function there. The bus drew up outside the main entrance and all passengers were told to alight. As she stepped onto the pavement, my mother was told by a policeman to stand where she was as the Royal car was approaching. She did as she was told and the car pulled up, out stepped H.R.H., smiled and patted me on the head! My introduction to Royalty and, perhaps why I have still a fair thatch on my head!
My earliest recollection was being taken into the building when it still contained artefacts from WW1 (part of the Imperial War Museum?) As I can recall seeing some aircraft, RFC or German, I wouldn’t know, but I understand that the Palace was commandeered by the navy during WW1 and was named “HMS Crystal Palace”. At the time of my visit there were still navy personnel on site and, as my mother often related, how she asked a sailor what the time was, to which he replied that there was the biggest clock in the world immediately above her head. We were standing at the extreme southern end of the nave, where the entire end wall was filled with a huge clock, in my minds eye I can still see it now. It was one of the many features of the palace, as was the huge glass ornamental fountain set in the centre just in front of the clock. I seem to recall that the clock advertised a clock company situated in the Strand by the name of “Dents”?
During my childhood I spent so many happy hours within the palace and its grounds. I should explain that in the twenties and thirties, the grounds were in two parts. There was the main area containing the palace itself and many of the buildings that had survived the great exhibition, but below the sports and football grounds, a corrugated iron fence separated the rest of the grounds which became known as Crystal Palace Park, in which the Prehistoric Menagerie was to be found as well as the boating lake, to the south of the grand, tree lined parade that led up from the Penge entrance to the turn-styled main entrance between the football and sports areas. The area to the north of the drive was a large open space which included a cricket pitch and pavilion. This area stretched up to a turn-styled entrance in Crystal Palace Park Road opposite what is now, Sydenham Avenue. Many hours were spent in that park; as children we could play in the area amongst the dinosaurs and their mates and great fun was made in a pre-historic cave that led out onto the lake through short underground passages.
The Crystal Palace was a popular centre for South London for so many activities during the period before the fire which brought everything to an end, with the exception of the Motor Racing Track. By a strange coincidence, a special ceremony of “Cutting the first sod” had been arranged for the morning following the great fire and, I understand, this was carried out despite the events of the previous night. There were regular exhibitions held covering Caged Birds, Dog Shows through to a South London Exhibition that competed with the Daily Mail Ideal Home Exhibition, held annually at the Olympia, West London. Each Christmas the Palace staged a “Continental Circus” in competition with “Bertram Mills Circus” held at the Olympia. But I would say that the event known world wide was the annual season of firework displays organised by “Brocks Crystal Palace Fireworks”, every item of their product had the trademark stamped on it with the silhouette of the palace with its two towers as a centrepiece.
I suppose that my memories should begin on that subject, as in the twenties and early thirties, for a few weeks at the end of August, into the early weeks of September, on a Thursday evening at sunset, a magnificent firework display took place, which could be seen for miles around in all directions. People would gather in groups at every vantage point to watch the proceedings with great cries of joy as spectacular great bursts of multicolour would fill the skies. There would be the occasional lull whilst all that could be heard would be a great deal of crackling and the odd bang, as set pieces would be demonstrated, only for those who had paid to be present in the Palace and seated on those vast steps overlooking the grounds. I was fortunate to have been taken on several occasions to see the whole show. I remember one set piece that depicted an air raid on London in WW1, The City was silhouetted in fireworks showing Tower Bridge, St. Pauls and other buildings, whilst a Zeppelin sailed overhead amidst shell fire from the guns below. Of course, the Zep would be shot down amongst cheers from the audience and the whole evenings show would end with a magnificent display of rockets whilst a portrait of King George V and Queen Mary would be displayed in fireworks. During the display, men dressed in fireproof suits would stage such events as a boxing match, dressed overall in fireworks, or riding bikes, pushing wheel barrows etc., all for the amusement of the audience.
These displays were usually preceded by other outdoor events, such as circus acts, tightrope walking and sometimes an aerobatic display. I remember well of a girl who would make a parachute drop from an aircraft flying over the crowd, until, on one visit, she landed in a tree which put an end to that. Of course, the Palace offered so many other attractions, both within the building and in the grounds. There was a cinema and theatre together with a selection of catering facilities, provided by “Mecca Cafes”, Cafeterias, Snack-bars and silver service restaurants, of course, there were licensed bars. And, one could ascend the North Tower either by foot or the lift, an experience never to be forgotten. One could see Devils Dyke on the South Downs. As a matter of interest, the base of the tower was on a level with the cross on the top of the dome of St.Pauls Cathedral, which I understand is 365 feet above sea level.
It was my considered opinion that the best view of the Palace was from the top of a railway bridge that crossed the line just south of New Beckenham Station. There was an uninterrupted view and to take in that view as the sun was setting was unforgettable, illuminating the glass edifice in a deep red glow, as if it was on fire!......... A vision of the future?
As a matter of interest. Recently I was informed by a member of our family, who is researching the family tree, that we had a relative who was employed by the Crystal Palace in late 1800’s` as a “Deep Sea Diver”. The mind boggles.
“Bank Holidays” at the Palace, all for a shilling for the day?
See the next instalment.
Memories of the Crystal Palace in the Twenties and Thirties.
Memories of the Crystal Palace in the twenties & Thirtie
Bank Holiday programmes.
A special Bank Holiday family programme would be promoted every year to cover Easter Monday, Whit Monday and August Bank Holidays, (With exception of Christmas and Good Friday, they were the only Bank Holidays at that time). The gates and doors would be thrown open early in the morning and not closed until very late at night and families would pay an entrance fee of, if my memory is correct, one shilling per person, half price for kids. If a child was a member of the “Daily Sketch” or “Daily Mirror” Clubs, he would have free access tickets.
A very comprehensive programme would have been arranged covering most sporting activities from motor cycle racing, boxing tournaments down to children’s events. Other attractions would be massed bands playing within the Palace as well as in the many bandstands in the grounds. There was everything to entertain one, come rain or shine. During the course of the day there would be a “Daylight Firework Display”, not the spectacular display of colours as displayed on autumn Thursday evenings, but crackers that showered novelty gifts down on to the spectators beneath. A small pin cushion in the form of Felix the cat fell at my feet one year, which my mother kept on her dressing table for many years.
In the centre of the grounds stood two edifices, namely the Rotunda and Maxim’s Flying Machine, both very popular with the visitors, but there would be a Travelling Fair surrounding this area, with all the customary side shows, coconut shies, swinging boats, hoopla and darts stalls overshadowed by a giant merry-go-round blazing forth from its steam organ. Inside the Rotunda there were static sideshows of darts and hooplas surrounding the inner walls, accompanied by a row of crazy mirrors which produced distorted reflections of those daring to look into them. In the centre was a twin helter-skelter which started high up in the building. Those tempted to make the decent would climb up the staircase, armed with the mat that they would sit on to descend via a series of twists and turns to emerge, with a great turn of speed and, screams and yells to the floor below.
Just beside the exit of this ‘space travel’ was sited a “Cake Walk” another source of screams and yells as the machine pushed and shoved two parallel platforms, side by side in opposite directions as those who had the courage to negotiate down one side and return on the other, whilst the machine would shoot forwards and backwards a foot at a time, whilst the passengers would be grabbing the handrails for dear life. Most of the side shows required a small charge of course, but overall, there was so much going on to entertain that was free.
At the time, those who were enjoying the fun and games within the building were not to know that later, in the WW2 years, the building was to be used to manufacture Cathode Ray Tubes for the then, very top secret invention of “Radiolocation”, later to be called “Radar”. For several years prior to this event, John Logie Baird had been experimenting with television in the South Tower to which he was associated with “Cinema Television” (later “Cintel”) who took over the Rotunda to carry out this work. One could not have found a better place to carry out such work in great secrecy and out of reach of the public.
As mentioned above, the Maxim Machine was a very popular item where those wishing to feel the effects of flying would book a seat in one of the eight (?) boats suspended from arms reaching out from the centre of the machine. When filled, the machine would begin to turn and as its speed increased, so the boats would swing out. The faster they turned, the further out they would swing. At the stern of each boat was a propeller which turned as the air flowed past.
There was so much to see and so many attractions, such as the Maze and of course, the ascent of the North Tower. This was well worth a visit, for the price of sixpence one could either use the lift or walk up the spiral staircase that led to the top and access to the circular viewing platform from which, it was claimed, one could see into eight counties on a clear day.
The two towers were built by Isambard Kingdom Brunel, to house water tanks that would feed the many fountains scattered around the grounds and inside the Palace, each to hold 1,200 tons of water. The height of each tower is reported to have been 282 feet. Whether these tanks were actually used may be a subject of doubt, because close alongside the north tower were two huge tanks set up high on stilts, which I always understood supplied the water for the fountains, perhaps someone may be able to confirm this understanding, as it would appear that that to install a tank, holding 1,200 tons of water at that height on a cast iron structure would be subject to some concern, certainly today’s “Health & Safety” would raise an eyebrow. What ever the result, the fact is that the north tower gave the most famous outlook over London and beyond and a memory that I shall never forget.
Between the tower and the north nave was a square, man made lake in which speedboat races were held. A spectacular display as the boats “jumped” around each corner of the restricted area, but great stuff to watch with plenty of thrills and spills for the competitors. It seemed that where-ever one found one-self, inside the Palace or outside, there was something going on to entertain. The choice was unlimited. One thing that stands out in my memory was the collection of static glass cases containing immaculate working models, in particular, there were many models of steam locomotives, the gleaming bright parts moved, once a penny had been put in the slot. Likewise there were many tableaux depicting such scenes as the hangman carrying out his duty, or scenes from the condemned cell, mostly gruesome subjects and a few “what the butler saw” viewers.
All day long, there would be music, either from the great organ in the central transept or from military bands playing in various quarters prior to marching to the centre auditorium, in turn, until they had all gathered and the combined massed bands would then delight the crowds with a sound that could only have been heard and appreciated in the wonderful acoustics of that great building. I must admit that I have never heard the like. There was also a ballroom for those wishing to dance the light fantastic or the cinema to rest ones legs.
As I have tried to explain, there was something for everyone to see and do, from admiring the many sections depicting pages of history, a wonderful model of the Coliseum in Rome and the huge collection of statues. There was an aviary of exotic birds and an aquarium.
At the end of the day, thousands of tired and weary folk would make their way home having enjoyed a great day at the Crystal Palace.
A special Bank Holiday family programme would be promoted every year to cover Easter Monday, Whit Monday and August Bank Holidays, (With exception of Christmas and Good Friday, they were the only Bank Holidays at that time). The gates and doors would be thrown open early in the morning and not closed until very late at night and families would pay an entrance fee of, if my memory is correct, one shilling per person, half price for kids. If a child was a member of the “Daily Sketch” or “Daily Mirror” Clubs, he would have free access tickets.
A very comprehensive programme would have been arranged covering most sporting activities from motor cycle racing, boxing tournaments down to children’s events. Other attractions would be massed bands playing within the Palace as well as in the many bandstands in the grounds. There was everything to entertain one, come rain or shine. During the course of the day there would be a “Daylight Firework Display”, not the spectacular display of colours as displayed on autumn Thursday evenings, but crackers that showered novelty gifts down on to the spectators beneath. A small pin cushion in the form of Felix the cat fell at my feet one year, which my mother kept on her dressing table for many years.
In the centre of the grounds stood two edifices, namely the Rotunda and Maxim’s Flying Machine, both very popular with the visitors, but there would be a Travelling Fair surrounding this area, with all the customary side shows, coconut shies, swinging boats, hoopla and darts stalls overshadowed by a giant merry-go-round blazing forth from its steam organ. Inside the Rotunda there were static sideshows of darts and hooplas surrounding the inner walls, accompanied by a row of crazy mirrors which produced distorted reflections of those daring to look into them. In the centre was a twin helter-skelter which started high up in the building. Those tempted to make the decent would climb up the staircase, armed with the mat that they would sit on to descend via a series of twists and turns to emerge, with a great turn of speed and, screams and yells to the floor below.
Just beside the exit of this ‘space travel’ was sited a “Cake Walk” another source of screams and yells as the machine pushed and shoved two parallel platforms, side by side in opposite directions as those who had the courage to negotiate down one side and return on the other, whilst the machine would shoot forwards and backwards a foot at a time, whilst the passengers would be grabbing the handrails for dear life. Most of the side shows required a small charge of course, but overall, there was so much going on to entertain that was free.
At the time, those who were enjoying the fun and games within the building were not to know that later, in the WW2 years, the building was to be used to manufacture Cathode Ray Tubes for the then, very top secret invention of “Radiolocation”, later to be called “Radar”. For several years prior to this event, John Logie Baird had been experimenting with television in the South Tower to which he was associated with “Cinema Television” (later “Cintel”) who took over the Rotunda to carry out this work. One could not have found a better place to carry out such work in great secrecy and out of reach of the public.
As mentioned above, the Maxim Machine was a very popular item where those wishing to feel the effects of flying would book a seat in one of the eight (?) boats suspended from arms reaching out from the centre of the machine. When filled, the machine would begin to turn and as its speed increased, so the boats would swing out. The faster they turned, the further out they would swing. At the stern of each boat was a propeller which turned as the air flowed past.
There was so much to see and so many attractions, such as the Maze and of course, the ascent of the North Tower. This was well worth a visit, for the price of sixpence one could either use the lift or walk up the spiral staircase that led to the top and access to the circular viewing platform from which, it was claimed, one could see into eight counties on a clear day.
The two towers were built by Isambard Kingdom Brunel, to house water tanks that would feed the many fountains scattered around the grounds and inside the Palace, each to hold 1,200 tons of water. The height of each tower is reported to have been 282 feet. Whether these tanks were actually used may be a subject of doubt, because close alongside the north tower were two huge tanks set up high on stilts, which I always understood supplied the water for the fountains, perhaps someone may be able to confirm this understanding, as it would appear that that to install a tank, holding 1,200 tons of water at that height on a cast iron structure would be subject to some concern, certainly today’s “Health & Safety” would raise an eyebrow. What ever the result, the fact is that the north tower gave the most famous outlook over London and beyond and a memory that I shall never forget.
Between the tower and the north nave was a square, man made lake in which speedboat races were held. A spectacular display as the boats “jumped” around each corner of the restricted area, but great stuff to watch with plenty of thrills and spills for the competitors. It seemed that where-ever one found one-self, inside the Palace or outside, there was something going on to entertain. The choice was unlimited. One thing that stands out in my memory was the collection of static glass cases containing immaculate working models, in particular, there were many models of steam locomotives, the gleaming bright parts moved, once a penny had been put in the slot. Likewise there were many tableaux depicting such scenes as the hangman carrying out his duty, or scenes from the condemned cell, mostly gruesome subjects and a few “what the butler saw” viewers.
All day long, there would be music, either from the great organ in the central transept or from military bands playing in various quarters prior to marching to the centre auditorium, in turn, until they had all gathered and the combined massed bands would then delight the crowds with a sound that could only have been heard and appreciated in the wonderful acoustics of that great building. I must admit that I have never heard the like. There was also a ballroom for those wishing to dance the light fantastic or the cinema to rest ones legs.
As I have tried to explain, there was something for everyone to see and do, from admiring the many sections depicting pages of history, a wonderful model of the Coliseum in Rome and the huge collection of statues. There was an aviary of exotic birds and an aquarium.
At the end of the day, thousands of tired and weary folk would make their way home having enjoyed a great day at the Crystal Palace.